Vietnam – Pho Real

Day 1 - ZAGREB – HO CHI MINH CITY

FLIGHTS – ADVENTURE

Meeting at Zagreb Airport and departure towards Vietnam. After a short layover, we continue towards Ho Chi Minh City. Two flights, a few movies, questionable attempts at sleeping and approximately 9,000 kilometres later, Southeast Asia awaits. Overnight on board.

Day 2 - HO CHI MINH CITY

CITY OF CONTRAST

Early morning arrival in Ho Chi Minh City. Welcome to Vietnam. There is no gentle introduction. Scooters everywhere. Tiny plastic chairs spilling onto pavements. Street vendors preparing breakfast. Steam rising from bowls of pho. Horns coming from every direction. Somehow, in the middle of all this organised chaos, everything works. After completing the arrival formalities, we transfer to the hotel to freshen up, have breakfast and rest for a while.

Later, we step into the heart of District 1, where elegant French colonial buildings stand beneath glass skyscrapers and reminders of the past mix effortlessly with modern Vietnam. We pass some of the city’s best-known landmarks, including the red-brick Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon and the beautiful Central Post Office, one of the finest surviving examples of French colonial architecture in the city.

There is one essential skill to learn immediately: crossing the road when thousands of scooters appear to have absolutely no intention of stopping. Don’t run. Don’t stop. Just keep walking. We continue towards Ben Thanh Market: loud, colourful, chaotic and the perfect place for our first encounter with Saigon’s markets, food stalls and bargaining culture.

As daylight disappears, Saigon changes gear. We’re not going to watch from a bus. We experience the city from street level, heading into the neighbourhoods, markets and food streets that come alive after dark. Steaming bowls, sizzling grills, bánh mì, local snacks and dishes whose names we’ll probably pronounce incorrectly. Naturally, there is only one appropriate drink for our first night: an ice-cold Bia Saigon. After dark, we will have a street food tour – how amazing is that?! Welcome to the south. Overnight in Ho Chi Minh City.

Day 3 - HO CHI MINH CITY – WAR STORIES

3T’S

Breakfast. Today we dig deeper into one of the most important and darkest chapters of modern Vietnamese history. We leave Saigon early in the morning and travel towards the countryside northwest of the city and the legendary Cu Chi Tunnels. What looks like peaceful countryside above ground once hid an extraordinary underground world.

During the Vietnam War, an enormous network of tunnels allowed Viet Cong fighters to move, communicate, store supplies and weapons, prepare food and disappear almost completely from enemy forces. The network included sleeping areas, kitchens, meeting rooms, medical facilities and command centres, all hidden beneath the ground. Today, we step into that world ourselves. We discover concealed entrances, learn how life underground was organised and see the traps and techniques used by guerrilla fighters. Those willing to test their nerves and flexibility can even enter sections of the tunnels and experience just how narrow, dark and claustrophobic life below ground could be.

After returning to Ho Chi Minh City, we continue the story at the Independence Palace, formerly the presidential residence of South Vietnam and the place where the war effectively came to an end on 30 April 1975, when a North Vietnamese tank crashed through its gates. From here, we continue to the War Remnants Museum. This is not an easy visit, nor is it supposed to be. Through photographs, documents, military equipment and personal stories, the museum presents the devastating human consequences of the Vietnam War, largely from the Vietnamese perspective.

Afterwards, the pace changes. The late afternoon and evening are free for cafés, markets, shopping, street food, rooftop bars or simply another Vietnamese coffee while watching thousands of scooters flow through the streets below. Tonight is our final night in Saigon. Make it count. Overnight in Ho Chi Minh City.

Day 4 - HO CHI MINH CITY – DA NANG

THE MIAMI OF THE EAST

Breakfast. One last look at Saigon before heading to the airport. Today we leave southern Vietnam behind and fly north to Da Nang, a modern coastal city of wide boulevards, skyscrapers, beachfront hotels, rooftop bars, illuminated bridges and kilometres of sand running alongside the city.

After arrival and transfer to our hotel, drop your bags, change into something lighter and head towards My Khe Beach, one of Vietnam’s most famous urban beaches. Swim, grab a drink, find a beach bar or simply do absolutely nothing for a few hours. This is our chance to slow down before the journey continues.

As daylight disappears, we head into the city and see one of Da Nang’s modern symbols – the enormous Dragon Bridge stretching across the Han River. After dark, the riverfront comes alive with illuminated bridges, cafés, restaurants and bars. Rooftop drinks, beach bars or Da Nang nightlife. Welcome to central Vietnam. Overnight in Da Nang.

Day 5 - DA NANG – MARBLE MOUNTAINS – HOI AN

MARBLE, LANTERNS

Breakfast. From modern coastal Vietnam to one of the country’s most atmospheric historic towns. We leave Da Nang and travel south towards the Marble Mountains, a cluster of five limestone and marble hills rising unexpectedly from the flat coastal landscape. Hidden inside them is a maze of caves, tunnels, Buddhist sanctuaries and pagodas, some carved directly into the rock. We climb through the complex, step inside cave temples illuminated by shafts of natural light and reach viewpoints overlooking the coastline.

We then continue to Hoi An, a former international trading port that once welcomed merchants from China, Japan and Europe. Their influence can still be seen in the architecture, temples and merchant houses of its remarkably preserved historic centre, today protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After checking into our hotel, there is time to slow down before heading into the Old Town as daylight begins to fade. Hundreds of colourful lanterns illuminate the narrow streets, food stalls fill the air with unfamiliar smells and small boats drift along the Thu Bon River. No strict plan tonight. Find some street food, grab a drink by the river and follow the lanterns. Overnight in Hoi An.

Day 6 - HOI AN

LANTERNS AND COCONUTS OR COOKING

Breakfast. A full day in Hoi An, and today the choice is yours. Spend the day exploring the UNESCO-listed Old Town at your own pace or join one of two optional experiences.

The first takes us to Cam Thanh Coconut Village, where we board Vietnam’s famous round basket boats and navigate the narrow channels of the coconut forest.

Alternatively, visit a local market before cycling through the countryside to Tra Que Village. There, a local chef introduces us to Vietnamese cuisine as we prepare—and later enjoy—several traditional dishes.

Both activities are available for an additional supplement.

In the evening, we can meet again for an optional dinner cruise along the Thu Bon River. As daylight fades, lantern-covered boats drift past us and the lights of Hoi An begin reflecting on the water. Overnight in Hoi An.

Day 7 - HOI AN – HAI VAN PASS – HUE

OCEAN & IMPERIAL

Breakfast. Today, the journey itself is part of the experience. We leave Hoi An behind and head north towards Hue, travelling through one of the most scenic stretches of Vietnam’s coastline. Our route takes us through Da Nang before the road begins to climb towards the legendary Hai Van Pass, literally the “Pass of the Ocean Clouds”.

For centuries, these mountains formed a natural boundary between northern and southern Vietnam. Today, the winding road across them offers some of the most spectacular coastal views in the country, with jungle-covered mountains dropping dramatically towards the sea below. We take our time, stopping at panoramic viewpoints along the way before descending towards Lang Co, a long sweep of white sand squeezed between the sea, mountains and a turquoise lagoon.

Our destination is Hue, Vietnam’s former imperial capital. After the energy of Saigon and modern Da Nang, Hue shows us a completely different side of the country. Life moves at a slower pace here, along the banks of the Perfume River and among the remains of a city that was once Vietnam’s political and cultural heart.

After checking into our hotel, the rest of the day is free to explore, grab a Vietnamese coffee or simply watch everyday life along the river. There is one more reason to be excited about Hue: food. The former imperial capital is considered one of Vietnam’s great culinary destinations, with hundreds of local dishes and a cuisine strongly influenced by the traditions of the royal court. Find a local restaurant, order a few dishes you can’t pronounce and wash them down with an ice-cold Huda, Hue’s hometown beer. Overnight in Hue.

Day 8 - HUE – THE IMPERIAL VIETNAM – NIGHT TRAIN TO HANOI

EMPERORS, PAGODAS

Breakfast. For more than a century, Hue was the seat of the Nguyen Dynasty, the last imperial dynasty of Vietnam. At the centre of it all stands the monumental Imperial City and Citadel, a vast complex of gates, palaces, temples and courtyards that once housed the emperor, his family and the royal court. We step through its fortified walls and discover the stories of a world that remained largely closed to ordinary people.

Hue’s emperors didn’t only build impressive palaces for their lives. They also planned spectacular places for what came after. We continue to one of the royal tombs of the Nguyen emperors, where architecture, gardens, lakes and surrounding nature were designed to reflect the personality and legacy of the ruler buried there. Later, we make our way towards the banks of the Perfume River and visit the elegant Thien Mu Pagoda, one of the oldest and most recognisable religious landmarks in Hue.

In the evening, another Vietnamese experience awaits us. Instead of flying north, tonight we travel the old-school way and board the overnight train to Hanoi. We settle into our sleeping compartments as the train leaves Hue behind and begins its journey through Vietnam. Around 700 kilometres separate us from our next destination, giving us plenty of time for cards, drinks, train snacks, conversations and, eventually, some sleep. It may not be the fastest way to reach Hanoi, but that’s exactly the point. Tonight, the journey is part of the destination. Overnight aboard the sleeper train.

Day 9 - HANOI

COFFEE, CHAOS

Morning arrival in Hanoi. Welcome to the capital. After breakfast and some time to freshen up, we dive into the Old Quarter and wander through its maze of narrow streets, where shops, food stalls, cafés and homes compete for every centimetre of pavement.

We reach Hoan Kiem Lake, the beating heart of the city and stop for something Vietnam takes very seriously – coffee. Strong Vietnamese coffee, condensed milk or Hanoi’s famous egg coffee (own expense). Pick your poison. In the afternoon, we visit the Temple of Literature, founded almost a thousand years ago as Vietnam’s first national university, before continuing towards the Ho Chi Minh complex and the iconic One Pillar Pagoda. From there, we return towards the old centre and stop at the neo-Gothic St. Joseph’s Cathedral: a reminder of another chapter of Hanoi’s complicated history.

We save one of Hanoi’s most unusual sights for last. Welcome to Train Street. Homes and tiny cafés stand only metres from an active railway line. We grab a drink, find a seat and, if the railway schedule is on our side, watch as the train squeezes through a space that looks far too narrow to fit one. The evening is yours. Street food, bia hơi, rooftop drinks, another bowl of pho or simply getting lost in the Old Quarter. Overnight in Hanoi.

Day 10 - HANOI – HOA LU – NINH BINH – HANOI

RIVER, RICE AND STEPS

Breakfast. Today we leave the chaos of Hanoi behind and head into one of northern Vietnam’s most spectacular landscapes. Our first stop is Hoa Lu, the ancient capital of Vietnam during the 10th and 11th centuries. Surrounded by dramatic limestone mountains, this small historical site gives us a glimpse into the country’s imperial past, when the first dynasties ruled from this naturally protected valley.

But history is only the beginning. We continue deeper into the landscapes of Ninh Binh, often nicknamed “Ha Long Bay on land”. Here, towering limestone formations rise from rivers and rice fields instead of the sea, creating one of the most recognisable landscapes in Vietnam.

We swap buses for small traditional rowing boats and set off through the UNESCO-listed Trang An Landscape Complex. For the next couple of hours, we slowly glide along peaceful waterways surrounded by steep limestone cliffs, passing temples hidden among the mountains and disappearing into natural caves where our boats squeeze beneath the rock before emerging into another valley. A delicious local lunch awaits as a reward.

Back on dry land, there is one more challenge waiting for us. Those willing to earn one of the best views of the trip can take on approximately 500 steps to the top of Hang Mua. It is steep, it gets sweaty, and halfway up you may question the decision, but the reward at the top is worth it: a panoramic view across the winding river, rice fields and endless limestone peaks of Ninh Binh. Return to Hanoi in the evening. Overnight in Hanoi.

Day 11 - HANOI – HA LONG BAY

LIMESTONE ISLANDS

Breakfast. Time to see Vietnam from the water. We leave Hanoi and travel towards the coast and legendary Ha Long Bay, one of Vietnam’s most iconic natural wonders and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Thousands of limestone islands and towering karst formations rise dramatically from emerald waters, creating a landscape that seems almost unreal. But we’re not coming here just to take a photo and leave.

We board our cruise and spend the next 24 hours living in Ha Long Bay. After settling into our cabins, lunch is served on board as we leave the harbour behind and slowly cruise deeper into the bay. Depending on weather conditions and the selected cruise route, we may explore hidden caves, grab a kayak and paddle between the limestone cliffs, stop for a swim or simply find a spot on deck and watch the landscape slowly pass by.

As the afternoon comes to an end, we return to the boat and watch the sun disappear behind the silhouettes of the limestone peaks. Grab a drink, find your place on deck and enjoy one of those sunsets that needs very little explanation. Dinner is served on board, followed by a relaxed evening surrounded by the quiet waters of Ha Long Bay. Tonight, the bay is our hotel.

Day 12 - HA LONG BAY – HANOI

LAST NIGHT

Early risers can step onto the deck and enjoy Ha Long Bay in the morning, while the water is still calm and the limestone islands slowly appear through the morning mist. After breakfast, we continue cruising through the bay and enjoy the final activities of our cruise. Depending on the selected route and weather conditions, there may be time for another cave, viewpoint or short activity before we begin our journey back towards the harbour.

One last look at Ha Long Bay before we disembark and return towards Hanoi. The route has now taken us all the way from the energy of Saigon through central Vietnam and into the limestone landscapes of the north. After arrival and hotel check-in, the rest of the afternoon is free.

This is the time for everything we haven’t done yet: last-minute shopping, one final Vietnamese coffee, another bánh mì or that bowl of pho we’ve been telling ourselves we don’t need. Return to your favourite corner of the Old Quarter, buy enough Vietnamese coffee to survive the next few months at home or simply sit down on a tiny plastic chair and take it all in one last time.

Tonight is our final night in Vietnam. Saigon’s endless energy, beaches and skyscrapers in Da Nang, lanterns in Hoi An, the imperial past of Hue, a night aboard the train, Hanoi’s organised chaos, Ninh Binh’s limestone valleys and a night among the islands of Ha Long Bay. We have crossed the country from south to north and eaten more bowls of rice than we can count. Make the last night count. Overnight in Hanoi.

Day 13 - HANOI – ZAGREB

HOMEWARD BOUND

Early transfer to Hanoi Airport for our flight home. After the layover, we the flight to Zagreb. Same people. Slightly more addicted to Vietnamese coffee.

Here we are, right at the end, but just for a while. Vietnam, you’ve been pho real! End of the journey.